What to eat in Baku
The Azerbaijani table in Baku: plov under a crisp kazmag, dovga, kufta bozbash, lyulya on the grill, qutab, shekerbura and tea from an armudu glass.

[ ] Eat plov with kazmag
    Saffron rice served as a mound with a separate gara of meat cooked with chestnuts, dried apricot and cherry plum. Underneath sits the crisp buttered kazmag.
[ ] Try dovga
    A soup made on matsoni yoghurt with rice, chickpeas and a huge quantity of herbs, stirred constantly so it does not split. Eaten hot or cold.
[ ] Try kufta bozbash
    A clear broth with one enormous lamb meatball hiding cherry plum and dried apricot inside, plus chickpeas and potato. The meatball is the size of a fist.
[ ] Try piti
    Lamb with chickpeas, tail fat and dried cherry plum, baked in an individual clay pot. Eaten in two stages: first the broth over crumbled lavash, then the solids.
[ ] Eat qutab
    Thin half-moon flatbreads filled with herbs, pumpkin or meat, cooked on a dry saj griddle and brushed with butter. Eaten with sumac and matsoni.
[ ] Try lyulya kebab
    Minced lamb with onion and tail fat shaped on a flat skewer and grilled over coals. Served on lavash with sumac, grilled vegetables and herbs.
[ ] Try dolma
    Vine leaves stuffed with mince and rice, served with garlic matsoni. Summer versions use fresh leaves, winter ones brined, and the difference is noticeable.
[ ] Try dushbara
    Tiny dumplings in a clear broth with vinegar and dried mint. So small that skill is measured by how many fit on a spoon.
[ ] Try sac
    Meat with potato, tomato and pepper fried on a large cast-iron pan and served on it over a burner. A dish for a group, eaten straight from the pan.
[ ] Try sturgeon and kutum
    Caspian fish on the grill: sturgeon in chunks with narsharab, and kutum, a white fish baked with walnut and cherry plum. A Baku coastal classic.
[ ] Try Baku pakhlava
    Diamonds of thin pastry with walnut and cardamom under a honey syrup, each topped with half a nut. It differs from the Turkish version in using walnut rather than pistachio, and in being less sweet.
[ ] Try shekerbura
    A half-moon pastry filled with ground hazelnut or almond and cardamom, with a pinched pattern along the edge. Novruz baking, shaped as the crescent moon.
[ ] Try firni
    A rice pudding on milk with saffron, rose water and cinnamon, served cold. Simple and not cloying, and it closes a long meal.
[ ] Drink tea from an armudu
    Black tea with thyme or cardamom in a pear-shaped glass, filled to the waist rather than the brim. Drunk with jam and lump sugar rather than sugar stirred in.
[ ] Try sherbet
    A cool infusion of rose petals, basil or lemon with sugar, served alongside plov and in the heat. Neither an ice cream nor a syrup: a drink.
[ ] Try local wine and mulberry spirit
    Winemaking here is ancient, and pomegranate wine is a local speciality, sour and astringent. Tutovka is a strong spirit from white mulberry with a distinctly sweet aroma.

Checklist from Unload: https://unloads.me/c/food-baku