What to eat in Bali
Balinese food rather than a resort menu: babi guling, bebek betutu, lawar, nasi campur in a warung, sambal, martabak and honest advice about civet coffee.

[ ] Eat babi guling
    A suckling pig stuffed with a turmeric spice paste and spit-roasted until the skin turns glassy. Served as a plate with rice, blood sausage, lawar and a piece of crackling.
[ ] Try bebek betutu
    Duck rubbed with base genep paste, wrapped in leaves and cooked for hours in embers or an oven until the meat falls off the bone. It is made to order, often a day ahead.
[ ] Build a nasi campur in a warung
    A plate of rice with several small portions chosen from a display: braised vegetables, tempeh, egg, chicken, sambal. You point at the counter and the meal is assembled in front of you.
[ ] Try lawar
    Finely chopped vegetables or young jackfruit with grated coconut, spices and often meat. A version made with raw blood exists, called lawar merah, and is worth asking about.
[ ] Eat sate lilit
    Balinese satay of minced fish or chicken with coconut and spices, wrapped around a lemongrass stalk instead of a skewer. The stalk perfumes the meat from inside.
[ ] Try nasi goreng and mie goreng
    Fried rice or noodles with kecap manis, a thick sweet soy sauce, an egg on top and krupuk crackers. The Indonesian staple, eaten at breakfast and at one in the morning.
[ ] Try sambal matah
    A raw sambal of finely sliced shallot, lemongrass, chilli and coconut oil with a touch of shrimp paste. Fresh, citrusy and hot: the signature of the Balinese table.
[ ] Try ayam betutu
    Chicken rubbed with the same base genep paste and slow-cooked in leaves until tender. The everyday, more available version of betutu, on almost any warung menu.
[ ] Eat pepes ikan
    Fish with spices wrapped in banana leaf and steamed or grilled over coals. The leaf keeps the fish moist and gives it a grassy aroma.
[ ] Pick grilled fish by weight
    Fresh fish, squid and prawns picked off the ice and grilled over coconut husk with sambal. The pick-and-grill format works along the coastal seafood strips.
[ ] Eat martabak manis
    A thick spongy pancake split, filled with condensed milk, chocolate, peanuts and cheese, then folded and cut into pieces. Evening street food of heroic richness.
[ ] Try pisang goreng
    Battered bananas fried until crisp and served with palm sugar or condensed milk. Sold in warungs and from carts all day, and especially with coffee.
[ ] Try dadar gulung
    A green pandan crepe rolled around grated coconut cooked in palm sugar. The colour comes from pandan leaf rather than dye.
[ ] Drink es cendol
    An iced drink with green pandan rice jelly, coconut milk and palm sugar. You drink and spoon it at the same time.
[ ] Drink Balinese kopi tubruk
    Strong coffee brewed straight in the glass with grounds left at the bottom, which are not drunk. The beans come from the Kintamani highlands, where the plantations run tastings.
[ ] Try Balinese arak
    A local spirit distilled from palm sap or rice, drunk diluted with lime and honey. Buy only licensed bottled arak; homemade batches have caused poisonings.

Checklist from Unload: https://unloads.me/c/food-bali