Winterize your car

What's inside

1. Switch to winter tires before the first frost

   Rubber compounds change grip below +7°C (45°F) — summer tires go hard and lose traction well before snow ever falls.

2. Book a tire-fitting appointment early

   After the first snowfall, shops get booked out for days. Schedule a couple of weeks ahead of the cold snap, not once everyone else has the same idea.

3. Check tire tread depth

   Winter tires need at least 4 mm of tread — more than the 1.6 mm summer minimum. Below that, grip on snow and ice drops off even if the tire isn't legally bald yet.

4. Adjust tire pressure for cold weather

   Pressure drops roughly 0.1 bar (1–2 psi) for every 10°C the temperature falls. Check every couple of weeks — you can't eyeball an underinflated tire.

5. Check the battery's charge and terminals

   The number one reason cars won't start in winter. Check the voltage and clean any corrosion off the terminals; if it's over 4 years old, get a load capacity test at a shop — it can read as charged and still fail in real cold.

6. Check antifreeze level and concentration

   Concentration determines the freeze point — have it tested (a hydrometer or a shop check) to confirm it's rated for your region's lows, not just topped up with plain water.

7. Fill winter washer fluid and carry a spare bottle

   Do this the moment it turns cold: summer fluid freezes in the reservoir and can crack the tank or the lines. Keep a spare bottle in the trunk too.

8. Fit winter wipers or fresh blades

   Stiff summer blades smear ice around instead of clearing it. Winter blades use an enclosed frame that won't clog with snow.

9. Apply silicone lubricant to the door seals

   A silicone spray or grease keeps the rubber from freezing to the body — skip it and a frosty night can seal your doors shut.

10. Carry a lock de-icer spray

    Keep it in your jacket pocket or at home, not in the glovebox — if the car itself is frozen shut, you can't reach the glovebox anyway.

11. Change the oil if it's due soon

    If a change is coming up anyway, do it before the cold hits: oil thickens in low temperatures, and worn oil makes that first freezing-cold start much harder on the engine.

12. Check the brakes

    Pads, discs, and the handbrake — stopping distance already grows on slick roads, and worn brakes stretch it even further.

13. Check headlights: bulbs and lens condition

    Winter days are short, and yellowed, cloudy headlight lenses can cut light output by half. Check the bulbs and polish the lenses if they've gone hazy.

14. Get a proper-sized scraper and snow brush

    The tiny scraper from the glovebox won't cut through hard ice. Get a brush with a long handle — you'll need it to reach the roof.

15. Carry a folding shovel

    A compact shovel in the trunk is your best shot at digging yourself out if you get stuck in a snowdrift on an unplowed road.

16. Check the tow rope and jumper cables

    Batteries die more often in winter — the odds you'll actually need these two items peak this time of year.

17. Pack warm gloves and a blanket for the cabin

    You'll need them for digging out the car or waiting for a tow in freezing weather — thin everyday gloves won't cut it.

18. Keep the fuel tank at least half full in winter

    This limits condensation in the tank (which can freeze in the fuel line) and gives you a buffer if you're stuck or stranded in a jam in the cold.

19. Fit rubber floor mats with raised edges

    Snow and road salt off your boots will wreck fabric mats and the carpet underneath over a winter. Raised-edge rubber mats contain all the mess.